For someone whose creations have dressed royalty, Bollywood icons and even Hollywood stars, fashion designer JJ Valaya speaks most fondly not of ramps, but of a city that shaped his formative years.Back in Chandigarh for a brief visit on Monday, the Czar of Indian Couture, who spent his formative years in the city, admits that every return is steeped in affection. “This is my favourite city in all of India,” he says without hesitation. “Which other city has the lake, the mountains nearby, so much greenery, the Rose Garden, the Rock Garden, and the Le Corbusier touch?”His bond with the city is deeply personal. Valaya was among the founding students of Yadavindra Public School, and despite travelling the world, Chandigarh continues to remain special. So does The Tribune. He fondly recalls the stunning photographs of The Tribune photojournalist Yog Joy, the newspaper’s iconic ticker that became part of the city’s daily rhythm and the fact that Joy’s son was his classmate at Yadavindra Public School. As he puts it, “Absolute and pure love for Chandigarh—that’s what I have in my heart.”Research before runwayOver three decades, Valaya has remained one of Indian fashion’s most respected names, known for weaving royal Indian heritage into contemporary couture. While fashion trends have evolved dramatically, he believes today’s clientele is more informed than ever. “People in India are getting more and more aware of fine taste,” he says, crediting the social media for exposing consumers to global aesthetics. With artificial intelligence now entering the creative landscape, he remains cautiously optimistic. “AI is wonderful—as long as you don’t become a slave to it. It should increase productivity, not make us lazy.”For Valaya, however, technology can never replace the painstaking process behind meaningful design. Calling himself “a very big researcher,” he says every collection begins with months of exploration before the first sketch is drawn. “Many designers today make good clothes first and think of the inspiration later. That’s sad. There’s a difference between being a fashion designer and someone who simply stitches clothes.”That philosophy translates into months of work. A collection that appears on the runway for barely 20 minutes is backed by months of prep.The launchpad for starsOver the years, Valaya’s runway has introduced many faces who later became movie stars—from Aishwarya Rai, Katrina Kaif, Deepika Padukone and Lara Dutta to John Abraham, Arjun Rampal and Milind Soman. More recently, his runway introduced Ibrahim Ali Khan and Rasha Thadani. Rasha’s debut carried a personal connection. “Her mother, Raveena, is a very dear friend. She had decided long back that when Rasha walked the ramp for the first time, it would be for me.”From Bollywood to WakandaWhile his designs have featured prominently in Indian cinema, and in Hollywood, Valaya recalls Coming to America and Black Panther: Wakanda Forever as the defining experiences of his career. He collaborated with Academy Award-winning costume designer Ruth E Carter on costumes for Angela Bassett. “Working with Ruth Carter and then on an actress like Angela Bassett, who is a superb actor was very rewarding. Angela winning the Golden Globe award was a magical moment. She won and it felt like I have won it, our small contribution to that role felt very special.”Heritage with a contemporary twistOften associated with royal India, Valaya says his fascination with India’s regal past stems from growing up in Jodhpur. “The finest pieces of art in India were commissioned by the royals. That’s something worth celebrating.” His inspirations extend from the grandeur of the Ottoman Empire to the fluid forms of architect Zaha Hadid.The Valaya paletteWhen it comes to colours, India’s iconic red continues to inspire him. His signature black-and-ivory chevron motif remains one of the defining elements of the JJ Valaya aesthetic. Off the ramp, his own wardrobe is refreshingly uncomplicated. Dressed in an ivory textured kurta set, layered with a matching bandhgala-style sleeveless jacket, paired with tailored black trousers and a black-and-ivory chevron-patterned turban, he smiles, “This is my uniform.”The next chapterBarely hours after his Chandigarh visit, he was headed back for the India Couture Week fittings, as he continues to expand of his flagship store at the start of another busy fashion season.If his life were to unfold as a couture collection, Valaya already has the title in mind. “The Maharaja Reborn,” he says with a smile, the answer arriving as effortlessly as his signature aesthetic. For a designer, who has spent decades reimagining India’s royal legacy for modern wardrobes, the title seems less a fantasy and more a fitting description!