Prada-Kolhapuri row: Luxury giant denies GI breach in Rs 500 crore legal dispute; calls them 'simple leather sandals'

NEW DELHI: Luxury fashion house Prada has denied violating the Geographical Indication (GI) rights associated with Kolhapuri chappals, after featuring sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear in its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection in Milan.In response to a Rs 500 crore legal notice, Prada's legal team said it did not use the term 'Kolhapuri' or any related GI markings in the naming, marketing, or display of its sandals, ET reported.The notice was issued by LIDKAR, a government-backed body from Karnataka that co-owns the GI tag for Kolhapuri chappals.The notice claimed serious violations of GI rights, accusing Prada of "selling, advertising, marketing GI-registered goods-traditional and handmade leather sandals, granted GI tag under the name 'Kolhapuri chappals' jointly for artisans from Karnataka and Maharashtra-without proper authorisation or permission, which seriously violates GI rights of my client, which attracts civil and criminal offences".Prada's formal response dated July 9, stated the sandals were simply described as "leather sandals" and did not suggest any regional origin or adherence to traditional Kolhapuri techniques."The sandals in question are broadly described as 'leather sandals' and there has been no suggestion, direct or indirect, that they originate from the GI-designated region or replicate the traditional Kolhapuri manufacturing technique," it said.

In a previous statement to ET on June 27, Prada had acknowledged drawing inspiration from Indian footwear but denied using the Kolhapuri name or methods.The company stated that it "acknowledges that sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear made in specific districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka were featured in its men's 2026 Spring/Summer show in Milan".Indian GI legislation specialists said that design inspiration alone does not constitute infringement without explicit commercial use of the name or origin."Borrowing the style without using the GI name in trade does not necessarily violate GI provisions," Priyanka Khimani, founder of an IP law firm told ET."Unless Prada markets or sells these sandals using the word 'Kolhapuri' or implies a link to Kolhapur's craftsmanship, there is no legal recourse," Khimani added.LIDKAR authorities are currently assessing Prada's legal statement. Prada's legal representatives emphasised that the brand avoided using 'Kolhapuri' in any product-related communications. The fashion show occurred on June 22.