Tarun Tahiliani, one of India’s most celebrated designers, marked three decades in fashion with a grand return to the runway at the Hyundai India Couture Week (ICW) 2025. His latest showcase, titled Quintessence, was a regal celebration of Indian heritage reimagined through a modern, personal lens.Presented at The Oberoi in the capital, the show combined intricate craftsmanship, refined silhouettes and a mood of opulence, all hallmarks of Tahiliani’s signature “India Modern” aesthetic.Modern take on Indian bridal couture‘Quintessence’ offered a fresh perspective on bridalwear, blending time-honoured techniques with contemporary structures. The collection unfolded in a palette of ivories, antique golds, deep reds and romantic pastels — each look more lavish and meticulously crafted than the last.A standout was a blush-toned saree adorned with 3D floral embroidery, paired with a corset-style blouse that offered a balance of delicacy and edge. Another featured a muted grey lehenga worn with a cropped blouse and a long, heavily embellished jacket, layering elegance with innovation.Menswear stood equally strong, with sharply tailored sherwanis and bandhgalas rendered in rich fabrics and tonal embroidery, most notably, a sleek black sherwani that radiated understated royalty.Every ensemble in the collection struck a deliberate harmony between weightless construction and visual richness, speaking to Tahiliani’s continued evolution as a designer who respects heritage while constantly reinterpreting it.Made in India: a nostalgic finaleThe show culminated in a nostalgic, celebratory finale as models returned to the runway to the iconic 1995 pop anthem ‘Made in India’ by Alisha Chinai. The track, which became a cultural phenomenon in its time, perfectly captured the spirit of ‘Quintessence’ — confident, proud and unapologetically Indian.“It’s a great track,” said Tahiliani after the show. “It’s a visceral process… I wanted to end on something that was core to who we are. That line — ‘Japan se Russia’ — it’s cheeky, fun and deeply relevant. We are who we are and we should embrace that.”From Wharton to rampReflecting on his 30-year journey, Tahiliani spoke candidly about his unconventional foray into fashion, which began after completing his business degree at the Wharton School in the United States.“I just dove into it. I was hungry to learn — embroidery, tailoring, everything. I couldn’t be Dior or Galliano. I had to become my own voice,” he said. “That’s where the fun is. That’s the journey.”He recalled the now-iconic moment when he broke the news to his father, Admiral R H Tahiliani (former Chief of Naval Staff and governor of Sikkim) that he planned to become a designer.“My father said, ‘I sent you to Wharton and you want to be a tailor?’” he recounted with a smile. “Later, he’d joke that everyone calls him ‘Tarun Tahiliani’s father’. I told him, ‘Just tell them you’re the dad of a tailor.’ He didn’t find it funny, but I thought it was cute.”
Tailored legacy: Strap: Tarun Tahiliani marks 30 years with a majestic bridal ode at ICW 2025
